Moon river: Twilight canoers get a unique view of the mighty Mississippi

When other people are taking their boats out of the water, Michael Clark is putting his in.

When other people are home getting ready for bed, he's canoeing by moonlight.

"A full-moon paddle is almost like church," said Michael, 49, a professional guide from Richmond Heights, Mo. "Seriously, it's a religious experience. It just has a different quality."

On his last excursion, Michael and two friends headed south on the Mississippi River about 6 p.m.

They had talked about going from West Alton, Mo., to downtown St. Louis, a 4 1/2 -hour trip with a break for dinner.

But they decided to take it easy and explore backwater lakes around the Mississippi-Missouri confluence and Riverlands Migratory Bird Sanctuary.

"This is just a sacred place," Michael said. "It really is. It's where the great waters of our country meet. They shake hands right here."

Michael can't help but wax poetic when he's canoeing near the spot Lewis and Clark began their expedition more than 200 years ago.

The Mississippi's main channel provides remarkable views of tree-lined banks, towering bluffs and, in the evening, lights on boats and buildings.

Backwater lakes are hot spots for wildlife viewing. Michael's group saw beaver, egrets and deer and coyote tracks. The sound of chirping birds filled the air. Asian carp jumped so high out of the water, one landed in the canoe.

"People drive to Montana to do exactly what we're doing here," said Michael's friend Scott Mandrell, 43, of Alton, an engineering teacher.

The group didn't even seem to mind that heavy cloud cover obscured the moon that night. There's always next time ...

Dream job

Michael is a part-time technology teacher who owns nine canoes and paddles year-round.

He is prepared for rough water, rain, whatever Mother Nature has to throw at him.

"Not much in the way of weather bothers me," he said. "I always bring gear to make it bearable."

Michael has spent the past two years turning his hobby into a business, Big Muddy Adventures. He takes groups of up to eight people on Mississippi River canoe trips, including the night before, during and after the full moon each month.

Sunsets provide ambiance for gourmet dinners and bonfires on islands or sandbars. Moonrises reflect off the shimmering water and illuminate the quiet landscape.

Sometimes Scott and Michael's neighbor Paul Lore help with larger tours.

"I just love nature," said Lore, 54, an attorney from Richmond Heights. "I like being out in the 'real' world."

Full-moon paddles last from about 5:30 to 10:30 p.m. The $75 cost covers dinner, equipment and Michael's colorful take on everything from navigation techniques to environmental issues.

Shuttle service back to vehicles adds another $10 to $20, if required.

Michael recommends people wear old tennis shoes or boots that won't get ruined by mud; layered clothing and rain gear in case it gets hot, cold or wet; and plenty of bug spray to ward off mosquitoes.

"You can do all of this and still make it for last call at Fast Eddie's," he said, referring to the popular Alton restaurant and bar.

Everyone paddles

On the last trip, Michael looked ready for adventure in his canvas outback hat, khaki cargo shorts and tall, black, rubber boots.

He packed a 24-foot-long fiberglass canoe with coolers and other gear before parking his van and trailer at Maple Island boat access in West Alton, next to Melvin Price Locks and Dam. The group buckled on life jackets and stuffed dry clothes and cameras into waterproof bags.

"Let's put her in the water and see if she floats," Michael said. "Just kidding!"

Once on the river, Michael navigates from the rear. But everyone paddles, steadily pushing the canoe forward with each stroke.

Just before moonrise, the group stopped for snacks on Maple Island. Its dense, dark forest looks like something out of a fairy tale. Water has washed away soil along the bank, leaving trees with tangles of exposed roots.

Michael wore a headlamp to prepare cheese and crackers, sausage, chips and salsa, nuts, cherry tomatoes and his own version of strawberry shortcake made with yogurt. People washed it down with ice-cold beer or tea made with water kept piping hot in an old-time Thermos.

"We leave no trace," Michael said, noting he packs all trash to keep from spoiling the natural environment.

He and his friends are accustomed to strange looks when they talk about canoeing on the Mississippi River, with its giant barges, fast motorboats and sometimes powerful current.

But they argue it's safe with the right experience and training.

"I believe that you have to be an expert paddler," Michael said. "If you've done the Current or the Jack's Fork, it doesn't necessarily prepare you for this. It's a bit different."

The group ran into short stretches where sunken barges, rocks or logs caused mini-whirlpools. But the water was relatively calm all evening.

One challenge for Mississippi River canoeists is finding a place to park and get on the river. Many access points are occupied by commercial ventures or blocked by logjams.

Another problem is getting back to the parking place. It's hard to paddle upstream, so it's often necessary to arrange for shuttles that can haul canoes.

"If it was easy to paddle upstream, everybody would be doing it," Scott said.

Big Muddy Adventures also sponsors day trips and overnights to Hermann, Washington, St. Genevieve and Cape Girardeau, Mo. For more information, call (314) 610-4241.

At a glance

Who: Big Muddy Adventures

What: Full-moon paddles

Where: Mississippi River and backwater lakes

When: About 5:30 to 10:30 p.m. the day before, after and during the full moon each month

Cost: $75 per person includes dinner and equipment (plus $10 to $20 for shuttle back to vehicles, if required).

Information: Call Michael Clark at (314) 610-4241.