Tuesday, Jun. 30, 2009

Grilled chicken needs loving care

When man and chicken meet at the grill, there's no guarantee the end result will be a steaming platter of fall-off-the-bone barbecued bird.

Often the results are one of two disappointing scenarios: chicken that's nicely browned on the outside but still pink and rubbery inside, or chicken that's cooked so long it resembles the briquettes it was roasted over.

But with some time, patience, and a few grilling tricks, perfect barbecued chicken is only as far away as your backyard.

Chicken is one of the most affordable meats to cook, and it's even cheaper when you steer clear of boneless, skinless cuts. For the best value, look for whole chickens you can cut up yourself at home, or chicken pieces that still have their bones and skin attached.

Most full-service butchers will cut up a chicken to your specifications, said Kris Burns, owner of Kirbie's Family Meats and Catering in Stow. "Chicken with the bones and skin are still better values," he said.

Not only will you save money by avoiding the boneless, skinless variety, you'll produce grilled chicken that's juicier, more tender and more flavorful when you grill it.

"Unfortunately, we have become this boneless, skinless chicken breast country," said Fred Thompson, a North Carolina-based food writer and author of "Barbecue Nation" (Taunton Press, $18.95) and the newly released "Grillin' with Gas." (Taunton Press, $19.95)

Thompson understands that boneless breasts are handy for busy families who are trying to put a quick weeknight meal on the table between soccer practice and gymnastics. But he said home cooks have forgotten how good chicken on the bone can be.

"Chicken develops such a great flavor when it's cooked slower, on the bone, than anything you will ever do with a boneless, skinless chicken breast," Thompson said.

Cooking bone-in chicken on the grill will take about 45 to 50 minutes, compared with the 20 minutes it takes to cook boneless breasts, he said.

Bone-in chicken will cook more evenly because of the way the bones will conduct heat. "It takes longer, but you get more flavor development out of it," Thompson said.

The skin provides a layer of protection to keep the meat from burning and the fat from the skin will baste the chicken while it cooks.

For those with health concerns, Thompson suggests cooking the chicken with its skin on and then peeling it off before eating. For those who won't use bone-in meat, Burns suggested boneless skinless chicken thighs, When selecting chicken for the grill, look for hens labeled "fryers" which weigh about 3 1/4 to 3 3/4 pounds. They're the perfect size for making grill favorites like beer-can chicken.

Larger birds, weighing 5 or 6 pounds, are considered roasters and are too big for grilling.

VIRGINIA PRUITT'S ORIGINAL PERFECT BARBECUE SAUCE WITH FRED'S TASTY MISTAKE

1 cup chopped yellow onion

1 cup granulated sugar

1 cup ketchup

1/2 cup distilled white vinegar

1/4 cup prepared yellow mustard

1/2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper

1/2 cup homemade white sauce (recipe follows) or pepper gravy mix, prepared as the package suggests

Combine all of the ingredients in a medium saucepan over medium heat and slowly bring to a boil. Reduce the heat slightly and cook until thickened, about 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Thin with a little water if it gets too thick. Serve on anything your heart desires. This will keep in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 weeks. Makes about 2 cups.

FORGET THE FRIED CHICKEN WINGS

3 pounds chicken wings

3 tablespoons canola oil

2 tablespoons My Quick, Simple and Wonderful All-Purpose Rub (recipe follows) or your favorite barbecue rub

1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter

6 garlic cloves, minced

1/2 cup red hot sauce

1 tablespoon distilled white vinegar

1/8 teaspoon celery seeds

Blue cheese or ranch dressing for serving

Celery sticks, for serving

Place wings in a large bowl and drizzle with the canola oil. Toss the wings until they are well coated. Sprinkle the rub over the wings and toss to coat. Cover and put in the refrigerator overnight.

About an hour before you're ready to cook, remove the wings and make the hot sauce.

Take a large skillet and melt the butter over medium heat. Add the garlic and cook for about 2 minutes, just long enough for the garlic flavor to infuse the butter. Pour in the hot sauce, vinegar, and celery seeds. Stir to combine and remove from the heat.

Oil the grill racks. Preheat your grill using all burners set on high and with the lid closed for 10 to 12 minutes.

Place the wings on the grill, close the lid and cook for 15 to 20 minutes, turning frequently, until all sides are brown and have grill marks. Transfer the wings to the skillet with the hot sauce and place over low heat, tossing to completely coat the wings. Let the wings and the sauce meld for about 5 minutes. Remove the wings to a platter, and pour any additional sauce over them. Serve with the dressing, celery sticks, and plenty of napkins.

Makes 6 to 8 servings, as an appetizer.

-- "Grillin' with Gas," Fred Thompson

MY QUICK, SIMPLE, AND WONDERFUL ALL-PURPOSE RUB

1/4 cup packed light brown sugar

1/4 cup paprika

1 tablespoon chili powder

1 teaspoon cayenne

1 teaspoon kosher salt

Freshly cracked black peppercorns

Combine all the ingredients in a container with a tight-fitting lid. Shake to mix. The rub will keep for several weeks. Makes about 1/2 cup.

-- "Grillin' with Gas," Fred Thompson