Belleville restaurant owner takes national stage in Food Network barbecue competition
Renowned barbecue guru David Sandusky has never backed down from a challenge, so when Food Network asked him to be one of 12 specialty pitmasters to compete in “BBQ Brawl,” he jumped at the opportunity to push himself farther.
“I’ve been in cooking competitions my whole career. I’ve competed in the Iron Fork Chef Challenge. Not much intimidates me,” he said. “You walked into this room, and these people are all the best. I wanted to learn from them while doing the thing I love.”
The second season of the competitive cooking show kicks off at 8 p.m. CST Monday, June 14, with a 90-minute episode, and will run through Friday, Aug. 9, for a total of 10 episodes.
At stake is the title “Master of Cue” and a starring role in a series on FoodNetwork.com. Through their digital platforms, the winner will become the network’s official BBQ expert for the year, giving tips and tricks to work a grill no matter a person’s skill level.
Sandusky owns BEAST Craft BBQ Co., with the flagship location that opened in 2014 in Belleville; a second location in St. Louis’ The Grove, BEAST Butcher & Block, in 2018; plus a third, BEAST Southern Kitchen & BBQ, which opened last December in the former Bully’s in Columbia.
Through his food, Sandusky has built a national reputation, earned many awards, and is always part of the conversation as to what is the best BBQ in the region. No small feat, given the bi-state area’s crowded field of ultra-competitive barbecue joints.
Furthermore, the BEAST was named “Best BBQ in Illinois” by Food & Wine Magazine, and one of the “Top 33 BBQ Joints in America” by Thrillist.
And Sandusky credits his success to “determination, sheer grit and an amazing staff and management team.”
In 2019, he competed on the Food Network’s “Guy’s Grocery Games,” with restaurateur and TV host Guy Fieri, and won the episode “Express Lane Extreme: Name Your Number.” That put him on the producers’ radar.
“They liked me. I got lucky there,” he said. “This is really exciting.”
While he can’t disclose too many details, Sandusky will be on one of the three captains’ teams — either Bobby Flay, Michael Symon or Eddie Jackson. They will mentor and coach the talented barbecue stars from around the country in a four-part competition.
The chefs must work together as a team but also stand out individually to avoid elimination. Two rounds of battles will take place during each episode and are set at the famed Star Hill Ranch in Austin, Texas.
A panel of judges includes barbecue legend Rodney Scott, award-winning chef Brooke Williamson and lifestyle personality Carson Kressley. They will decide which team was the least successful, and determine what competitor was the weakest link, sending them home.
The ultimate bragging rights are, of course, the carrot, but the opportunity to grow was a major factor in Sandusky agreeing to do it.
“We all worked really hard,” he said. “It’s one thing to compete as I did on ‘Guy’s Grocery Games’ for one day — it’s a different experience to compete as a team.”
Sandusky enjoys working with Flay and Symon
The culinary icons Flay and Symon, both Iron Chefs, were a dream to work with, Sandusky said. Jackson is a former NFL player, and now a chef and Food Network host. He won Season 11 of Food Network Star in 2015.
“They are not only incredible chefs but unbelievably cool and even better human beings — some of the best people you could ever meet,” Sandusky said.
All in all, Sandusky’s individual skills were tested, making him a better chef.
“They were so helpful and generous and willing to help you be better,” he said.
When Sandusky moved from fine dining to craft barbecue, he said he called it his “home run.” He wanted the BEAST to elevate the ‘Cue in the ‘Lou: “All Killer, No Filler” is his mantra.
“I wanted to do the best that I could. If I shook the tree, that’s what I had to do,” he said. “It wasn’t easy. I didn’t want to be like anyone else.”
‘There was a huge uproar’
Sandusky has called attention to locally sourced products and doing business with local farms.
He said when the Riverfront Times proclaimed in a June 2015 article the best barbecue in St. Louis may be in Belleville, that brought out many haters.
“The comments were horrible. There was a huge uproar. It was their most read article,” Sandusky said.
However, the silver lining is the groundswell of support from Belleville and throughout the region for his menu.
“The way people completely embraced it was cool to see,” he said. “People come here with expectations, so that’s a challenge.”
Deep gratitude to Belleville
Sandusky said he recognizes Belleville allowed him to grow his roots there.
“The gratitude I feel for Belleville and the surrounding area — I appreciate it so much. I wouldn’t be where I am today without this strong connection,” he said.
Word quickly spread on how good his roasted Brussels sprouts with pork belly were, and, today, Sandusky said between all three locations, they sell 1,000 pounds a week on average.
His bacon-white cheddar macaroni and cheese side dish was voted the best in a St. Louis Post-Dispatch poll in 2017.
Sandusky realizes how passionate people are about barbecue in America. A ministry school dropout, he compares it to a denomination.
“Everyone has an uncle or a restaurant that does it right,” he said.
Crediting his wife Meggan
While Sandusk’s not one to take vacations, “he samples other restaurants,” and it’s checking them out that fuels his desire to make changes or think of things in new ways.
“It helps keep you in check, trying to learn from what they’re doing. It pushes us to do it better,” he said.
His wife, Meggan, is vice president of the company and director of marketing. He credits her with getting them to where they are today in the business. Along the way they have grown their family — they have three children.
“Open a restaurant, have a child,” he said, joking.
They have learned how resilient they can be during the pandemic.
“You have to keep going. There is no time to stop. I don’t know how to stop,” he said. “I was raised like Ice Man in ‘Top Gun.’ I don’t take no for an answer.”
More about BEAST Craft BBQ
And now, opening a third location last year, Sandusky continues to work on taking his food to a whole new level.
In addition to a smokehouse, the Grove location has a butchery shop where prepared foods are sold, too, including their fry sauce. They have a private event area called The Skullery and also the only one with an open patio.
All three restaurants are currently closed Mondays and Tuesdays, and open from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Wednesday through Sunday, with the Columbia location open until 9 p.m. Friday and Saturday.
BEAST Craft BBQ is at 20 S. Belt West, Belleville, IL, 618-257-9000, https://beastcraftbbq.com; BEAST Butcher & Block is at 4156 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, 314-944-6003, https://beastbbqstl.com; and BEAST Southern Kitchen & BBQ is at 1280 Columbia Center, Columbia, 618-719-2384, https://beastsouthern.com.
This story was originally published June 14, 2021 at 5:00 AM.