Editorial: Why the Italian beef beats the horseshoe sandwich
Wednesday in Springfield, hometown of the horseshoe sandwich, state Rep. Rick Ryan, D-Evergreen Park, made a daring pitch. He argued that the official state sandwich of the Land of Lincoln should not be that ham-and-cheese (or whatever-and-cheese) covered with french fries abomination that currently holds that lofty status. The horseshoe, he said, should be replaced by the noble and far subtler Italian beef, a veritable feast of flavors and textures, at least when well seasoned and amply dipped.
To make his case, Ryan brought along the actor Corey Hendrix, one of the stars of the FX series “The Bear,” which is to the Italian beef what the Wiener’s Circle is to the humble char-dog.
Like so many debates in our state, this is in many ways a Chicagoland versus downstate conflict. The horseshoe has been spotted in the past at TriBecca’s Sandwich Shop in Chicago’s Avondale neighborhood, but we did not see it on the pickup menu when we last checked (perhaps the Cubana took its place). And 6 Degrees, another sometime purveyor, appeared to be defunct in the Bucktown neighborhood when we looked there. No doubt the monstrosity can be found in a couple of other spots beyond our ken, but it’s about as common up here as a Great Lakes piping plover.
But the beef, of course, is ubiquitous. We will truck no rival to Johnnie’s Beef in Forest Park, a superlative dipped treat, but we’ll nod our head to Al’s #1 (which has several spots) and to Luke’s, conveniently located just steps from our office and with a bespoke “Luke’s Way” dip. And we’ll certainly pay homage to Mr. Beef, now probably the most famous boeuf of them all, even now to be found by Gate B14 at Midway International Airport, although we suggest 666 N. Orleans St. for an authentic experience.
Of course, the Italian beef should be the official state sandwich of Illinois. The horseshoe, with all its attendant implications of lobbyists schmoozing legislators, has more than had its day.
If we are reading our amendments correctly, it appears compromise won the day and Ryan’s bill ended up allowing the horseshoe the status of official open-faced sandwich of Illinois, making room with a compensatory title that to our minds is really not a sandwich at all. It’s more like a Danish smørrebrød or a French tartine. No match for the Italian beef.
Some of the famed beef emporia above will be taking Memorial Day off, but plenty of other Chicago-style food stands will be up and running for your nourishment and pleasure. Most are not chains, but they offer tasty gyros and brats, beefs and Jibaritos, tacos, lemonade and hand-cut fries.
Perfect for a day off.
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This story was originally published May 25, 2026 at 5:15 AM.